Here is the painting I want to epoxy resin. It's ink on bristol board.
The painting was sprayed with Krylon UV resistant clear acrylic coating, (no photo) and allowed to dry.
Next, I painted the edges and sides of a 12 x 12 box canvas black (the chosen border color). Once the canvas was dry, I used Golden brand gel gloss medium to fix the painting to the canvas.
A layer goes on the canvas and on the back of the painting.
I used this handy dandy tool to smooth the painting onto the canvas. I think I used it originally in a print-making class many years ago. I don't remember what it's called or where to get it. A plastic putty knife would work just as well. I will use that later for the resin.
I smoothed the front and the backside of the canvas.Then I put a heavy pile of books on top of the upside down canvas, so that the painting will dry very flat.
So, here's the cast of characters for the next part: epoxy resin (it comes in two parts the resin, and the hardener), a disposable stirring spoon and bowl, protective gloves, and the putty knife (not pictured).
Also, make sure the place you are working is well ventilated. Epoxy resin doesn't really have a strong odor, but it still isn't safe to breathe. It's too humid to work outside now so my system is a fan on the resined pieces pointing towards a fan that is in the window.
Also, wear a mask. AND if you have long hair, tie it up.
Mix equal parts resin and hardener. This is important. If the ratio isn't 1:1 the resin won't harden right. Mix thoroughly.
Pour it on the piece. Be careful not to resin your piece to the floor. Resin will bind just about anything together. I once had to knock a piece off my basement floor with a hammer and screw-driver.
Spread it around making sure everything is covered. I also used the mixing spoon or a disposable paint brush to smooth the resin around the edges of the box.
Every 10 minutes or so, use a blow dryer to pop any bubbles that form on the surface. If you skip this step, your piece will have permanent micro-bubbles.
Let it dry. It will be hard to the touch in about 8 hours. Make sure no one disturbs it during the time. If the place it's drying isn't exactly pristine (like a garage maybe), you might need to protect your piece from dust or bugs with a carboard box.
So, here's the cast of characters for the next part: epoxy resin (it comes in two parts the resin, and the hardener), a disposable stirring spoon and bowl, protective gloves, and the putty knife (not pictured).
Also, make sure the place you are working is well ventilated. Epoxy resin doesn't really have a strong odor, but it still isn't safe to breathe. It's too humid to work outside now so my system is a fan on the resined pieces pointing towards a fan that is in the window.
Also, wear a mask. AND if you have long hair, tie it up.
Mix equal parts resin and hardener. This is important. If the ratio isn't 1:1 the resin won't harden right. Mix thoroughly.
Pour it on the piece. Be careful not to resin your piece to the floor. Resin will bind just about anything together. I once had to knock a piece off my basement floor with a hammer and screw-driver.
Spread it around making sure everything is covered. I also used the mixing spoon or a disposable paint brush to smooth the resin around the edges of the box.
Every 10 minutes or so, use a blow dryer to pop any bubbles that form on the surface. If you skip this step, your piece will have permanent micro-bubbles.
Let it dry. It will be hard to the touch in about 8 hours. Make sure no one disturbs it during the time. If the place it's drying isn't exactly pristine (like a garage maybe), you might need to protect your piece from dust or bugs with a carboard box. It will be completely cured in maybe 3 days. Resin self levels, so there is no need to fuss over it, with the exception of the micro-bubbles.
No comments:
Post a Comment